The Croatian Coast is a place that firmly belongs in “must-see to be believed” idiomatic territory. You’d be forgiven, in fact, for thinking all of those Clarendon-filtered photos of its towering cliffs, terra-cotta-colored buildings, and oh-so-blue waters—were plucked straight from some make-believe movie set. Only, they’re not make-believe. The cliffs are that striking; the Old Towns, that labyrinth-like and intricate; the waters, that clear and blue.
So, while you won’t need any convincing to visit, you might just appreciate a few tips on how to pack in as much activity as possible once you’re there. Here’s one way—of many possible ways—to spend four days along the spectacular Croatian Coast, splitting your time between three of its most storied cities: Split, Hvar, and Dubrovnik.
Day 1: Split
Split is the largest city on the Dalmatian Coast and the second largest in Croatia. Like many Coastal Croatian towns, it is composed of ancient alleyways, polished marble passages and plazas, unmistakable red-tiled roofs, and hundreds of stray cats meandering among the parapets. Split also has an alluring knack for blending the old with the new. Ancient structures—like 4th-century Roman palaces, 14th-century Medieval fortresses, early 19th-century Napoleonic Rivas—are backdrops for beachside bars blaring electro-house while young people in bathing suits sip on oversized drinks and splash in the Adriatic.
Playing Tourist
Split is a very walkable city, and strolling through its alleys offers an enjoyable lesson in way-finding. Put the Google Maps away and see if you can’t get lost in the web of corridors. The town is small enough that you won’t need to worry about getting seriously lost, and you might just stumble upon a secret wine bar or pastry shop tucked away from the masses. Also, be sure to stroll along the water’s edge next to the Riva—an elegant, French Riviera-infused strip of waterfront lined with palm trees and al fresco cafes.
Outdoors
Marjan Hill(Opens in a new window) is a must. Rising 600 feet above the town center, this forested hill is a gem for outdoor exploration. Hike up the 300-plus stairs to the highest point. Find hiking paths weaving through the Mediterranean pines. Or even rope climb the cliffs. There are pebbly park beaches at the base of the hill, ancient cathedrals etched into the rocky cliffs on the way up, and sprawling panoramas of the island-dotted Adriatic at the top.
One particularly worthwhile way to experience the hill is to rent a bike, and take the switchbacks on the paved service road all the way from the bottom to the top. You can ride straight from the rental shop and then complete a roughly 6-mile loop that zig-zags through shaded pine groves, grinding up the steep road until you reach the summit, where you’re greeted with unrivaled views of the town and surrounding seascape.
Food & Drink
Konoba Matoni(Opens in a new window) checks all the boxes. Situated in a halfway underground cellar with vaulted ceilings, the atmosphere is warm and inviting; the location is prime with nearby Bacvice Beach being a great place to swim before your meal; and the food is exceptional, offering a modern spin on traditional Croatian dishes with meat and fish the focal staples but also some solid vegetarian and vegan options as well.
One bar that shouldn’t be missed is the Academia Ghetto Club(Opens in a new window), a bohemian bar located in the heart of Diocletian’s Palace, an ancient Roman structure that comes alive at night with impromptu music. This is where locals gather to sit in an intimate courtyard, with bubbling fountains, ivy crawling up the palace walls, and a funky, eclectic vibe with velvety furniture and tattooed bartenders.
Days 2 and 3: Hvar
Hvar is a long strip of an island located about an hour and a half from Split via ferry. It’s characterized by high ridges and bountiful hillsides laden with lavender fields, pine forests, and vineyards. There are two main towns that people visit: Stari Grad, one of the oldest towns in Europe, which was originally founded by the ancient Greeks in the late 4th century, and Hvar Town, once a major naval hub that played host to centuries of violence and back-and-forth handoffs between a mix of Medieval empires, kings, thieves, and pirates. Hvar Town is the one you’ll want to visit.
The Hvar Town of today gets a rap as being one of the biggest party islands in Europe. While this rings true during the busy summer season, early autumn offers a much more laid-back vibe and a lot of do-it-yourself exploration.
Playing Tourist
All of the must-see tourist spots in Hvar (the port, St. Stephen’s Square, St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the Franciscan Monastery) are conveniently centralized and easy to string together on one very swift self-guided stroll. The only one you’ll need to work for—and you definitely should—will be the stair-laden trudge up to the Fortica, a 16th-century Venetian castle standing guard over the port. From the Fortica, you’re met with sweeping views of the harbor and Paklinski Islands.
Outdoors
The best way to find some open-air adventure in Hvar is to rent a small boat(Opens in a new window) and embark on a miniature island-hopping and cliff-jumping tour of the surrounding Paklinski Islands. There are plenty of tour operators to easily (and economically) rent from, and even if you’ve never operated a boat before, they have people who will provide a quick lesson before setting you loose to learn by trial and error.
Once you feel like a bona fide sea captain, you’re free to explore as many little inlets, beaches, coves, and cliffs as your heart desires. There are even a number of places along the Hvar Coast where you can jump from 15–30 foot cliffs, and the water that greets you below is indescribably refreshing—the perfect temperature and a little saltier than most American ocean experiences, which makes you feel buoyant and light.
Food & Drink
The restaurants in Hvar tend to be a little pricey, but there are a few places that offer excellent food and drink options without the overly chic air. Konoba Menego(Opens in a new window) is a family-run restaurant that offers traditional Dalmatian fare in an intimate, warmly-lit tavern in the old part of the town. It often has a wait, but they provide a cushion, so that you can sit on the Old Town steps with a glass of wine and people-watch.
If you want a sunset cocktail and maybe a little swimming, Falko Beach Bar(Opens in a new window) is tucked away in a shady grove of pines offering affordable drinks, comfy hammocks, and great people-watching.
Day 4: Dubrovnik
The ferry ride from Hvar Town to Dubrovnik is about 4.5 hours long, so make sure you pop into a pastry shop before the journey to stock up on bureks—traditional Turkish/Mediterranean pastries with flaky phyllo dough and overstuffed fillings, which can be savory or sweet.
Dubrovnik is the most popular Dalmatian Coast city to visit, having made a name for itself as a film site for Game of Thrones and Star Wars. Known as the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” this far southern Croatian port town is defined by its Old City—an ornate bubble of baroque buildings, marble streets, and entangled passageways spider-webbing through a jumbled web of organized chaos, all surrounded by remarkably intact fortress walls.
Playing Tourist
The quintessential thing to do in Dubrovnik is walk the city walls circumnavigating the Old Town. The entire journey is about a mile in length and two hours in duration, and it takes you on a rolling stroll over countless turrets and towers with intimate looks inside the Old City and breathtaking views of the glittering Adriatic beyond. There’s a small fee to pay, but it’s a must-do experience and not something to shirk even if many other people are doing it.
Outdoors
Probably the most popular way to get outdoors in Dubrovnik is to get on the water with a kayaking tour(Opens in a new window). These half day trips set off from a small cove just below the fortress walls with a tour guide and travel across a short channel to Lokrum Island—a lush, lung-expanding patch of land home to beaches, caves, and even a monastery with botanical gardens. On the way back, you’ll paddle parallel to the Old City walls, which offers a unique view of the fortress from down below.
Food & Drink
Buza Bar(Opens in a new window) is an iconic establishment stitched into the seaside face of the fortress walls. You can snag a table and sit at the actual bar, but what makes this place truly special is the freedom to venture down the stairs with a Karlovačko beer in hand to find your very own rocky, sun-soaked perch and join the speedo-wearing locals for a bit of sunbathing, cliff diving, and swimming.
For dinner, many of the places in close proximity to the harbor or the Stradun (the main street) are fairly touristy. The key is to venture away from these open-air spaces and up the steep, stone staircases sprinkled with more hidden bars and restaurants. A good rule of thumb is: the narrower the alley, the broader your chances of finding an authentic spot.
A Few Parting Tips
Here are a few more tips to know before you go:
- Seasonality: Early autumn offers fewer crowds, yet that still has the warm weather and swimmable temperatures of late summer.
- Cash: Very few places in these Coastal Croatian cities accept credit and debit cards. The places that do generally only accept cards when the spend amount is over a certain limit.
- Ferries: Having an understanding of the ferry schedules as soon as you arrive in a new harbor town is key. The ferry websites are a little tough to navigate, so it’s far easier just to walk into a tour operator shop to speak with a real human.
If you’re seeking a European adventure full of world-class hiking, cliff jumping, sea kayaking, and sea-to-tavern imbibing, then a trip to Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast is just the ticket.